10 Tips to show your summer side
Makeup artist Danine Zwets reveals her tips and tricks for sunkissed skin and the best brows.
WE TALKED TO DANINE ZWETS, hair & make up artist for Mrs.Highbrow’s latest summer shoot. She has years and years of experience working with some of the best photographers and stylists all over the world, and lives and works in Amsterdam. Her signature looks are natural makeup with a twist and a flawless skin. Her hairstyles range from beautifully polished to a more raw and edgy look. Several Dutch and international magazines have published Danine's work and she also works for commercial brands. After our long mandatory confinement and much living inside, it is fortunately time to go out again. To work, to the terrace or to that date that hasn't happened for so long. We wanted to use this moment to show off the new looks.
How did you come up with these expressive looks? Where did you get your inspiration from?
Danine: "Beforehand we discuss with the team which direction we want to go, what the look will be, what feeling the image should convey. In this case: tough, stubborn and a tad arrogant, but in the Amsterdam way. The models (Sterre and Elena from Touché Models, ed.) already had these qualities in them, and I am just there to add some detail. I am often inspired by the face and character of the model, and also by the location setting, which in this case was very graphic, with blue skies. Styling is of course an important factor. Everything together gives me an idea of what I'm going to do with hair and makeup."
How does it work, during such a shoot? You are of course working on our models Sterre and Elena for a long time. Does photographer Carin Verbruggen have much influence on that?
Danine: "Yes, we’re used to having a briefing session with the photographer beforehand about how, what and where, we also discuss the clients’ view of the whole thing, and so we come up with more ideas together, very much complementing each other. Once on the set I do make up and hair, and Carin trusts that it will be okay. Everyone is very busy with the preparation, light, locations, angles and clothes, because you often have very little time on such a day."
The goal at the photoshoot was to make the brows look as expressive as possible. What did you do to get them this bold?
Danine: "I used Mrs.Highbrow's BrowSoap, which has a handy brush that you moisturise first. Then you take a little soap out of the tin and brush it on the brow. Against the direction of the hair growth and then with direction of the hair growth. After that you brush the eyebrows up as much as possible, for the soapy effect. Indispensable in my makeup case. Also to create a less bushy eyebrow I find this BrowSoap perfect. It makes sure brows stay in shape all day long."
And did you choose the colors of eyeshadow consciously, or do you go more by gut feeling?
Danine: "I think Elena has a good toughy look, and with her I felt I could make a statement with some brighter eye shadow, and a graphic eyeliner with a slightly different shape. A bit bolder and nice and quirky. The kind of girl who walks around in a big city like Amsterdam and still wants to show, 'Hey, here I am'. With Sterre, I just found her blue eyes very beautiful, so I wanted to use a little orange/peach color to make the blue in her eye look even brighter."
What kind of foundation did you use? And a concealer or a color corrector cream?
Danine: "I used a concealer from Ellis Faas, for under the eye, to lighten it up a little bit there, and on the skin a foundation from Ellis Faas. That's a pretty opaque foundation. Both models already had very nice skin, so then I only apply a very thin layer, because I do want to see the skin in the photos."
Why Ellis Faas?
Danine: "I choose Ellis because this particular brand has a very nice palette of colors. The colors blend, as it were, with the skin. And the packaging is very handy because it consists of pens, with a built-in brush. This brush is made of synthetic material so it is also easy to clean. And I like the brand because I can choose between different textures of lipstick. Like the Glazed Lips, for a full glossy lip, and Creamy Lips for a more opaque effect. I also like the concealers, because of the covering effect, without it being too much makeup. Just like the foundation, which allows you to achieve an opaque effect on irregular skins, but also a nice shine to already flawless skin, by using just a small tip."
What kind of primer did you use?
Danine: "I start with a cleanser to take off any layer of dirt on the skin, then an essence to keep the skin comfortable and moisturized. I tailor my product to the model's skin and what it needs. But I definitely don't use too much, because I also want the makeup to still be able to adhere properly. Then I apply a prime spray over the face when I'm done with makeup, so it stays put."
How do you get that beautiful summer tan on the face?
Danine: Usually I don't use more foundation and concealer than necessary. I want the skin to still be able to show through, and I use a shade that is as close to the skin tone as possible in color. Next, I apply blush to the highest point of the cheek. I tell a little joke to get the models to smile a little and see where the highest points are. Then with the Ellis Faas blush pen I put a few dots on this spot and I blend it out with the fingers, which gives you a very natural blush, to make it look a little more sun kissed. In the summer, I put what's left on my finger with a swipe on the nose bone and on the forehead, just in the places where normally the sun also creates that sunkissed feeling."
With that comes a mascara to accentuate everything. What do you choose to wear this summer?
Danine: "I've been using mascara from The Make-Up Studio for years, another real Amsterdam brand. And if you want to go full glam at night, use a good eye primer."
Perfume in makeup combined with sunlight is often not a good combination as it can cause irritation and pigmentation. How do you deal with this
Danine: "Always use sunscreen. I personally go for factor 30 in the winter, and 50 starting in the spring. I also prepare the models thoroughly if there is an outdoor shoot. And we make sure with the team that the model doesn't have to stand with the face in a burning sun for too long, especially if there is quite a bit of make up on the face."
What do you look forward to, now that we're heading into another nice summer?
Danine: "I am looking forward to going out on summer days with as little make-up as possible. Maybe a bit crazy, but if you're working with cosmetics every day like me... And as much protection as possible with a factor 50 of course, I also like to wear a sun hat, which also protects my face from the sun, then a good red lip and brushed brows. That is my favorite summer look, not to mention a few drops of Sun Drops in my body lotion. These drops give my legs and arms a bit of a summer tan, a bronzer actually.
Danine's ultimate summer makeup tips
1. In the summer, choose products with SPF (sunscreen) as much as possible.
2. Use an eyelash curler to create a more open effect
3. Choose a BB cream or CC cream
4. Use a bronzer
5. Always put a primer under your face makeup
6. Use fixing spray
7. Lip balm against chapped lips
8. After applying your lipstick, gently dab your finger on your lip, then your cheeks, to add a little extra color to your cheeks.
9. Use waterproof makeup
10. Go for makeup without perfume